Onyx Kenya Gachatha AA
The Gachatha washing cooperative has been a key partner for us in Kenya for the last five years. This year’s coffee truly shows the harmony of the notable high elevation terroir of the Nyeri mountainside and the longstanding talent of Kenya’s farming community. Processing mostly SL cultivars, you’ll notice an effervescent-like mouthfeel in the cup, which is a result of increased phosphoric acid content from this specific cultivar. This improves overall tactile and pushes fruit notes to the forefront.
Traditional | ● ● ● ● ● ● ○ ○ | Modern
SL28, SL34, Ruiru 11. Kenya Washed, Raised-Bed Dried.
Cup Notes: Ripe Peach, Brown Sugar, Green Apple, Silk
We visited Kenya in December of 2019, right in the swing of harvest. During our time in Kenya, we ventured upcountry to visit the many stations we purchase coffee from each year, in order to see the harvest and to meet with our partners there to plan for cupping coffees shortly after. Driving upcounty to Nyeri is stunning, the driver expertly weaves their way through the traffic of Nairobi. The city can seemingly extend forever, due to the massive amount of layered housing extending from the city center. Once Nairobi fades away, you comfortably cruise the highway north towards Nyeri. On a clear day, Mount Kenya is in full snow capped view to the left, while miles and miles of pineapples pass by your right. Once you reach the base of Mount Kenya national park, well-known names of cooperatives and washing stations start to pop up. During our time, we visited many stations that we purchase from each year. The Gachatha Farmers Cooperative Society is made up of about 1300 farmers. Jane Nyawira has managed their wet mill (factory) for over 12 years now. It is rare to see a manager work for such a long time and shows that dedication and consistency always help provide a great cup. Located 100 miles north of Nairobi, the cooperative is in the famous coffee-growing region of Nyeri. There they utilize the elevation of the Aberdare Mountains and water from the Kangunu river. This station has consistently produced incredibly sweet, complex, bright coffees, and we continue to ask marketers and reps to bid on these at the auction on our behalf.
Kenya has a pretty advanced coffee system. Two avenues are used to sell and export most coffee: the Nairobi Coffee Exchange (central auction system) and a marketer direct-sale system. Cooperatives tend to lean towards the first and use the auction system to sell their coffees based on quality. You must be a licensed marketer to buy coffee through the competitive auction system by bidding on coffees. Auctions are held every Tuesday with samples of the coffees going out to the marketers and cuppers the week prior. This way, you can cup the outturns for the week and decide which coffees you wish to bid. An outturn refers to the week of wet milling and production of coffee. You’ll see a number next to all our Kenya lots which describe which outturn it was. We tend to like outturns between 14-21, which are in the middle to the end of harvest time and usually have the most nutrient-dense and best-tasting coffees.
In the Kenya process, first, the cherries are sorted, and under-ripe/overripe cherries are removed. Once the sorting is finished, the coffee is then depulped. This is done by squeezing the cherry through a screen and removing the fruit and skin from the bean. The coffee is then left to ferment in white ceramic tiled tanks for 24 hours. Next, the coffee is stirred for a short amount of time and left to ferment for another 24 hours. After two days of dry fermentation, the coffee is washed with fresh water, removing the sticky mucilage attached to the beans that are loosened by bacteria during the fermentation. It’s then soaked in water to ferment overnight slightly. The coffee goes through sorting and density channels, which separates the lots, and then it is taken to raised beds to dry. Once it reaches 11.5-12% moisture content, the coffee is brought to conditioning bins to rest until it goes to the dry mill.
Once a coffee has been processed, dried, and then milled, it goes to a sorter that separates the beans by specific characteristics, mainly size. Coffee goes into a machine that vibrates, sending beans through different screens with different-sized holes and sorts the coffee based on size and density. This results in a more uniform coffee and cup profile. Then the coffees are auctioned based on the grade (size & density) they have.